How To Repair Lap Siding

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You can find many American homes even so clad in authentic Dutch Lap Wood Siding. This fashion of wood siding is easily identified past its distinct shadow lines. By name, information technology is called Dutch Lap, German Lap, or even Novelty Siding. While this may crusade confusion, it is clear, however, that its unique await inspired one of its numerous successors' most popular profiles. (Run into: "Dutch Lap" & Vinyl Siding.)

Dutch Lap, especially in pine and cedar, remains readily available and is still installed today. Know though that when we talk nigh patching or replacing this blazon of siding, we are often referring to the patch and repair ofantique Dutch Lap Wood Siding (equally I am here).

Below are tips I learned myself during repairs on a Victorian-era farmhouse. In this commodity, I take also included some lessons learned, i.e. notable mistakes I know I made. You'll see Amazon Affiliate linking to products I recommend for the chore. (More on all of this at the bottom, and I hope it all helps.)

Do I Patchor Do I Remove and Replace My Dutch Lap Forest Siding?

Forest siding is subject to the elements, andsome harm over time is, well, almost expected. For whatever number of smaller repairs – a hole, a gouge, etc, an epoxy-based wood filler (like Abatron) or fifty-fifty a polyester-reinforced repair product (like Bondo) tin can do the play tricks. That said, though, there are many other situations where removal and replacement is, well, I'1000 pitiful – but the all-time approach.

Rot, for ane, appears and is ofttimes due to farthermost, repeated exposure to moisture. Rot is specially prevalent at locations where water splashes back from an bordering surface. Wood siding nearly the ground and/or near a roof or porch transition is the most prone to this malady. In some cases, a quality forest hardener can help retard or even "contrary" this type of harm. With many more rotted boards, however, removal and replacement remains, again, the only feasible option.

I've often seen antique Dutch Lap Wood Siding painted (our Victorian was no exception). If well maintained, paint encapsulates, helping to preserve and protect. Pigment, however, introduces a new bespeak of failure. In my case, southern sun exposure brutalized rear parts of the house accelerating paint deterioration (earlier my time of course). Poorly maintained paint fosters a situation where wood siding can not only capture but also trap and hold moisture. This usually leads to keen, splitting, and in a lot of cases, hmm, irreparable damage to boards.

Information technology's a Piffling Similar Surgery

Reader, Don Five., wrote in and asked, "Is this a chore within the adequacy of an average DIY guy?" (My answer at the bottom.) He had questions regarding both "matching material" and "dissection." I responded and told him, "It's a lilliputian like surgery."

At that place is no question that targeted removal of a few damaged boards is one of the most challenging aspects of this job. For this, I'd recommend arming yourself with (amid other things) a couple of quality apartment bars, a compact circular saw, and an oscillating multi-tool. (More on that too in a bit.)

If you decide to address larger sections of siding, consider information technology a new install. While non covered explicitly hither – moisture and airflow management should be central in your listen equally yous continue.

Starting time By Identifying Your Existing Dutch Lap Wood Siding

Another big claiming is matching the existing, antique Dutch Lap Wood Siding. As with naming, in that location was oft a regional, local, or even a neighborhood colloquial at the time of install. What I mean – slight variations oftentimes appeared, installation to installation, in the textile's stock, thickness, pinnacle, profile, cove cut, rabbet cut, etc.

You should effort to match your existing siding every bit closely as possible; this will not simply make re-installation far easier, simply it will produce a far ameliorate job. For matching purposes, harvest a sample (or two) from the home. (Come across the section – Surgical Removal for more than tips on this.)

So Place Your Replacement Dutch Lap Forest Siding (Common Options)

Salvage – With sample in mitt, it is best to start with a local salvage chiliad.

Lumber Yard – Dutch Lap Wood Siding is still bachelor, besides, at most lumber yards, in a stock profile. The problem, of course – today's profile almost certainly volition not match your antiquarian profile. (Exist warned over again here, my ain Victorian farmhouse had non one, but three separate (though simply slightly different) profiles present around the house).

Mill – Virtually any mill (sometimes affiliated with your lumber yard) can reproduce an verbal match on your Dutch Lap (using that harvested sample). The price nevertheless tin be, well, a little intimidating.

In checking with friends National Lumber, my contact Kevin F. says:

The price on the 1 x vi German siding yellowish pine is $ane.40 per lineal/running pes. This is the standard 105 profile. Please come across the enclosed snipped image.

If we have to practise a custom profile to match, the cost is approx. $350.00 for the knife. It is conceivable and possible that our vendor does have the knife and if so, then the toll of the knife would be absorbed. Ultimately, we would need to meet a sample if our vendor has the knife.

Additionally, the fix and break down fee which is $85.00 to set up and $85.00 to break downward.

The toll of the 1 x six lumber-clear yellow pine is .95 per foot and the cost to push it through the car is .45 per running pes.

Summary – Choose clear siding — a premium grade free of knots and other imperfections. This grade is very stable and is the best choice if you tin can afford it.

Equally Kevin mentioned, a local mill receiving other requests for the same contour may already have the knife on hand. Assuming you lot can skirt this custom pocketknife price, you lot start, still, at around $200 for set up. And so, add the $1.40/ a pes for the run. All totaled – custom milling costs can climb pretty quickly into the range of$3 to $4/a linear human foot on clear pine (depending of form on how much you will need). In his words, "To sum it upwardly in a nutshell, custom can exist exorbitant, but at times necessary to match the existing production."

For me, and while, no, non exactly perfect, the$i.40/lf of the 105 profile was a far more than palatable option. At the fourth dimension, it seemed close plenty.Important! The more economical stock profile choice will, nonetheless, still require a minimum buy that should be considered in your costing. In my example, the minimum order was a package of (viii) eight-foot boards, merely sixteens were ultimately what I purchased.

Prep Your "New" Dutch Lap Woods Siding for Installation

When yous receive your order, united nations-packet, and let your new siding to acclimatize (for me – in my garage) for about a week. (Better of grade outside if the forecast is articulate.) Store textile elevated and separated if possible with stickers – brusque sticks of flake wood. This entire job is best approached, of course, when the weather is temperate, i.e. in the spring or fall.

If your siding was previously painted, plan now to paint your repair. While in that location is some distention regarding this, I would suggest at minimum to prime/seal all sides of your fabric – the back as well as all cuts, if possible.

If time and budget allows, care for the entire board beginning (front, dorsum, ends, and edges) with a wood preservative and allow two days for drying – before you lot prime. Sealers and preservatives are brushed or rolled on, while a spray primer tin make quicker work of cut ends, simply before install.

Surgically Removing Antiquarian Dutch Lap Wood Siding

Again, think of this as surgery. But unlike surgery, it is okay and even expected that you might lose a board or ii in the early stages. Exist mindful besides that with antique painted surface, at that place is likely lead paint present. Programme to command this.

Get-go by locating nails – these will of course also reveal stud locations. A five-in-one tool is helpful in removing paint build-up or caulk and will create a infinite for slipping a apartment bar or other removal tool up behind the siding.  The goal here is to remove, and but remove, what needs to be replaced – unless flashing behind also needs some attending. If you tin can neatly remove the siding, so whatever portion of the boards you are removing will remain re-usable later if needed.

The couple of tips hither can aid greatly: Slowly work across the length of the board existence removed. Persuade the lath out by working the long leg of a flat bar upwardly behind the wood siding at an identified stud location. Of import! Being besides aggressive with the lesser edge, and not getting enough of the meat the lath, can be costly. This will tempt a split at the board'southward rabbet.

I found that working with a pair apartment bars is all-time. While I used a couple12-inch Stanley flat bars, 15-inchers, like this one on Amazon, or 21-inch bars would have been way more handy.

When removing a board, you want to reach upwardly behind not only the board you are addressing, but also the board immediately to a higher place it. By loosening the lath above,  you lot can work your target lath abroad from the business firm. Pulling it out, then whacking it back in with a hammer tin assist free nails for like shooting fish in a barrel pulling.

Alternatively, and equally yous create space for yourself by removing boards, a hacksaw blade held in a gloved hand and/or a sawzall or a multi-tool fitted with a bi-metal bract tin can cut through nails, freeing the board just as easily.

Making Surgical Cuts on Antique Dutch Lap Woods Siding

If removing a fractional, in the middle of a course – a compact circular saw or better, a Dremel Saw Max is indispensable. Again using the stud locations yous've already noted, take a 7-inch speed square and placing the lipped debate against the bottom edge of the lath, draw a line at the center of the stud location. Place your cut such that any board remaining will refasten to a stud.

Using your compact saw, loaded with an appropriate blade, fix the cut depth to just over three/four″ (if possible) and cut at your mark, but Important! stop curt of the lath above. The 3/4″ depth is probable not enough to cut through the entirety of the lath's thickness. Hither, this cut is meant to be more of a deep scoring action.

Complete the cut with an oscillating multi-tool, loaded, too, with a quality blade.

What You Might Detect When Removing Antique Siding

As your antique siding has a one-half of century or more of wear, then do the materials underneath. As y'all roll back the easily of time, you curlicue back too the maturity of building practices. For me, I peeled back areas of siding to find exposed insulation and un-sheathed areas. In almost all locations, I institute heavily stained and deteriorated rosin paper. My siding (in fir) was treated on its face in verdigris – a copper based sealer, but the back of the boards were a deep brown and untreated. Square nails held most boards firmly in place, just many showed signs of rust and disintegration.

Cut and Hanging Replacement Dutch Lap Woods Siding

Cut new material with a miter box/back saw combo or with a chop saw. I used my 10″, but a 12-inch sliding chemical compound miter saw would accept been far more effective. (Check thisDEWALT DWS779 12″ Sliding Chemical compound Miter Saw –On auction on Amazon for $399. Wow!) For cut multiples of the same length, prepare and gang cut. Call up to seal cut ends before y'all install.

Now, with hanging, reader, Don V. asked – "Practice I replace top downward or bottom up?" My respond – kinda depends. Every bit you might see from photos – I installed pinnacle-down in some locations, bottom-up in others.

Working with a slightly variant cloth, as I was, information technology may make more sense to work downwards trying to keeping each course locked tight and level to the i above. This creates a situation, however, where you must face up boom your new boards.

Prepare yourself to make inconspicuous rip cuts both at the top of the board and/or from the boards' rabbet. This volition permit for effective jigsawing into identify. If it'due south a toss up, bottom-upwardly is surely the more than ideal way to go.

Nailing Replacement Dutch Lap Wood Siding

With a new install, you lot install a starter course and work your mode up. This not but coursing easier, but also makes for a far more convenient nailing design. While yous will find varying recommendations on nailing, Dutch Lap is ideally nailed to studs, at 2 locations – roughly 1/4″ from the tiptop of the board (such that this smash is hidden with the subsequent form) and 3/4″ from the bottom (such that that blast passes simply above the board below it). Of import! Do not over-nail as this will create inconsistent shadow lines.

When replacing a larger area, piece of work with a story pole to ensure consequent coursing throughout. Be mindful of the coursing of adjacent exterior walls. Try to remain consistent as possible around the house – this makes for a more "professional" job. (You can run into mine slipped here just a fiddling.)

With nails, you have a number of options. I myself toggled between stainless ring shanks and galvanized siding twists. If you are simply replacing a few boards, plan to pre-drill with a 7/64″ wood bit. Whichever fastener you lot choose, ensure that it can pass through both siding and sheathing into a stud, is rust-resistant and does not react with any sealers used.

I find that when nailing it is best to prepare each lath with a single (topper) nail at each stud. A second nail is added at intervals along the span. This second blast is non driven all the manner abode until level, reveal, etc. has been checked. As hinted at above, keep nailing consistent, and I'll become so far to say – unless you are using pneumatic tools, nominate i person and only one person for all nailing on the job.

Consider flashing backside with metal, self-stick or roofing felt at locations where boards are spliced. Bed the back sides into a liberal bead of h2o-resistant caulking, checking that the seam remains filled once nailed.

Finishing Your Newly Replaced Dutch Lap Wood Siding

Once installed, finish whatever joints/seams with appropriate sanding. There is some argue almost whether the bottom edge of each lath should receive caulk. I chose to on my repairs for two reasons. 1) To help with air sealing on a very onetime home, and ii) To give the finished chore a much cleaner look. Caulk with a highly elastic premium paintable caulk, and paint with a high quality exterior pigment.

For more on caulking at Dutch Lap Wood Siding, please run across our articles: Gettin' Weatherized with Caulk and Dap 3.0, a Review :: Caulking at a Chimney.

Lessons Learned with Repairing Dutch Lap Wood Siding

Reader, Don V., asked – "Is this a job within the capability of an average DIY guy?" Well, my respond – probably yes, BUT at that place are a lot of moving parts and things to consider with this task. Don V. is correct to put the time in upfront with thinking it through.

For me, I know I should have taken more than time and focused more than on my coursing. I was able to seamlessly patch in at several locations (similar simply below this bay window). You tin can't even really tell.

But the irregularity of some of the piece of work in the ell still bugs me (like this patch-in under a new wood window). In this instance, I probably should have just replaced entire board lengths.

Working around windows and doors can be a claiming, too. I'd recommend trying to remain mindful of the larger job – identifying inconspicuous locations where yous tin can adjust the rhythm of your boards if needed (for example, with short lengths an inside corner).

Which textile? While the stock profile worked out uncommonly well in the places where I only had to fill in two or three full-length courses, there is no question that any larger replacement will turn out better if you lot go all in on the custom milling required for an exact lucifer.

Your factory/lumber yard should be able to help some by making minor adjustments, like rips on height, even for a stock order. If ordering a product that ultimately will be painted, ask if pre-primed is bachelor.

Remember to check yourself repeatedly. A long (or light amplification by stimulated emission of radiation) level or a simple chalk line can be helpful for reference every bit you work.

Wrapping Up – a Note on Flashing

Cheers out to reader Don V. from Pa. for the motivation to write this commodity. Cheers likewise to Kevin at National Lumber, every bit always, for his support.

Terminal Notes: If new penetrations are introduced or the fenestration is modified (aka an a window or door is added and/or is otherwise upgraded), much of this info nevertheless applies. On a new forest siding installation, a stain, over paint, is a far better option. With whatever siding job, consider the existing air and moisture barrier – don't just slap up of Tyvek – :~).  At roofing or flooring, besides equally effectually windows and doors, program for installing (or at minimum, inspecting) metal flashing. This almost certainly will mean utilizing Whorl Stock. And in general, it might mean implementing some non-standard practices. Encounter: Installing Window and Door Cap & Replacing Roof Flashing at a Wood Side Wall.  (An entirely different topic.)

For more than on repairing woods siding, hither is some other peachy article from friends over at Habitation Fixated – Clapboard Siding Repair.

For me, I hope this begins a year-long unloading of tips and lessons learned from working on a unique old firm. Stay tuned. That said, aye, my married woman and I have since moved from this Victorian – and more on that also maybe soon. There's a lot of piece of work to be done and thanks for reading.  ~jb

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Source: https://www.buildingmoxie.com/tips-repairing-dutch-lap-wood-siding/

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